Azilal, a province in the Atlas Mountains with a thousand and one Berber carpets

Where is the province of Azilal located?

I could start by telling you about Azilal rugs, since that's kind of our bread and butter. But before I bore you with my sales pitch, I thought a little general knowledge wouldn't hurt. Selling Berber rugs is good, but bringing a touch of dream and travel, sharing my passion for Morocco, is even better, I think! The province of Azilal is located in the heart of the Atlas Mountains, in the far south of Morocco, near the city of Marrakech.

We all have in mind the famous poem by Victor Hugo:

Oh! How many tourists, how many travelers
They stay in Marrakech without looking anywhere else.
In this bleak horizon, they remain at La Mamounia.
They part with a little bit of cash for three Berber trinkets.
They enjoy couscous and tea by moonlight.
But they won't have a single bit of beautiful Azilal

But I know you're not one of those people. You're not one of them because you're reading these lines and preparing to follow in my footsteps, marveling at the beauty of the landscapes. Green mountains dotted with Berber villages and hamlets. In Azilal, the rivers are wild and are called Oueds. And what about the people? The Azilali are very hospitable, always ready to help and share, provided you approach them with simplicity. They live mainly from agriculture, livestock farming, and now, of course, tourism. They are very attached to their traditions and culture. You'll see it in their music, their clothing, and also in their crafts. I don't presume to introduce you to these crafts; I won't even tell you that what you find here you haven't already seen in the Marrakech souk. Because that would be a bit of an exaggeration. Azilal Kilims and other Berber rugs are in Marrakech, they are also all over the Internet and it is not even very profitable for me to go so far to find them when I can actually choose them from my artisans in Marrakech, Casablanca or Fez.

But I love Azilal; a kind of old-fashioned romanticism keeps me going back to stock up. Oh, I won't lie to you, I don't go there on camelback or even on an eco-friendly trek. No, I rent a big Land Rover and I'm accompanied by a Moroccan friend who speaks Arabic and a few very useful Berber dialects.

We leave Marrakech early in the morning on the R210 and drive east to Demnate. Then we turn north and in less than three hours we're in Azilal. In early spring, the landscape is still lush and green. We're in Morocco, but we could almost be in the Alps. Or maybe in Afghanistan. Even though I've never set foot in Afghanistan, I have this romantic streak that always makes me imagine I'll run into Commander Massoud! But I digress. So, we're in Azilal, looking for antique rugs. Actually, it's not very difficult. We're easily spotted from afar with our rented 4x4 and my shock of blonde hair! And let's be honest, with the internet, WhatsApp, and Instagram, Bohemian Chic Interior is hardly a secret. It's a bit easier for me. But know that if you venture alone into the province of Azilal, you're perfectly safe. The lost tourist is of course seen as a potential source of income but is also pampered and respected.

So it's in this valley, slightly smaller than the Savoie department, that our playground lies. Further on, beyond the mountains and at the edge of the vast desert, if we had headed south, there's Ouarzazate. But that's another story.

The ancient Azilal carpets, the object of our quest

We find them in the villages and hamlets we visit, but also in larger towns like Tnine Ourika, Ouzoud, and Abaïnou. We could stay in Marrakech to find them, but the advantage of going to the mountains is that we eliminate one, or even several, intermediaries. Don't think for a moment that this makes our purchases less expensive. Haggling is a cliché, a reality for tourists, but less of a novelty when you're known as one of the leading Western dealers in Berber rugs. Especially if you have to acquire several thousand rugs each year, then haggling over every single piece isn't really an option. You have to establish a relationship of trust with each artisan and understand that what matters is the beauty and quality of each Berber rug you choose. Because yes, every Azilal rug you find on this site has been individually selected. For every kilim, every Berber rug from Bohemian Chic Interior—whether it's a large black and white Beni Ourain Berber-style rug for a living room, a new and colorful Azilal for a child's bedroom, or an antique Boujaad for a vintage look—know that ten others have been eliminated. Sometimes I can go several years without seeing an artisan I met in the Ourika Valley. But thanks to the magic of the Moroccan internet, we stay in touch and work together using photos.

The black marble of Azilal

Discovered several decades ago in the small town of Zouerat, black marble is now extracted on a large scale. It was used in the construction of the Grand Theatre of Rabat. You can find it in many Moroccan interior design stores, as well as abroad. There are several black marble quarries in the province of Azilal, but the most famous is located in the village of Abaïnou. This black marble with white veins is worked on-site and then transported by truck to Marrakech, where it is crafted into sinks, tables, fireplaces, and more. Every time I go to Azilal, I think that one day Bohemian Chic Interior might import this exceptional marble. Then I back out at the last minute. The product is unique, and breakage during transport is always a possibility. I tell myself that others must have tried and perhaps failed. If, by chance, dear reader, you have experience importing black marble from Morocco, please don't hesitate to contact me! Or even if, like me, you have fallen under the spell of the fascinating black marble of Azilal and you want to try the adventure then write to me.

The women of Azilal and their indigo

In the small villages of the province, there is often a cooperative where women work. They are usually weavers, but sometimes they also make hand-embroidered linens. It's possible that, like us, you will have the opportunity to meet these women and see them at work. If they aren't too shy, they will show you how they make their natural indigo dye. The color obtained from the indigo plant, or Judas tree, is truly incomparable. It is one of the oldest natural dyeing techniques known to humankind.

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